View of Cerro Dragón from Santa Cruz Island. Photo credit: putneymark via Flickr.

Of all the islands in the Galapagos Archipelago, Santa Cruz Island offers visitors an unbeatable location at the center of the region, with varied lodging options, sparkling beaches, exhilarating adventure sports and outdoor activities, the one-of-a-kind Charles Darwin Research Station, and easy links to the neighboring islands. The second-largest island in the group, after Isabela Island, covered almost entirely by the Galapagos National Park, and hosting the largest settlement of people in the Galapagos, Santa Cruz Island is an immense, dormant volcano that rises up to 2,835 feet above the dark blue waters of the Pacific Ocean.

Santa Cruz Island can be visited as part of an exciting Galapagos Tour from Quito, capital of Ecuador. Connected to the international airport on the nearby island of Baltra by ferry, Santa Cruz’s capital, Puerto Ayora (population 12,000) makes the perfect hub for adventures on the island. Beautiful Tortuga Bay, walking distance from town, provides ample opportunities for swimming, surfing, snorkeling, and wildlife-spotting, though beginning swimmers are encouraged to enjoy the calmer, protected waters of the western end of the beach. The main attraction on the island, however, is the Charles Darwin Research Station, primary protector of the renowned and endangered Galapagos tortoise. The institute offers guided tours where visitors learn about the life cycle of the eleven various subspecies of tortoise. The reptiles can be seen in their native habitat at the Cerro Chato Tortoise Reserve near the settlement of Santa Rosa.

Other activities on the island include hiking and bird-watching on the volcanic peaks of Cerro Media Luna, Cerro Puntado, and Cerro Crocker. A short water taxi ride from Puerto Ayora brings visitors in the know to pristine Playa de los Alemanes and nearby Las Grietas, a series of grottoes half-filled with brackish water and offering hiking and swimming in a seriously unique environment. Further afield, just off the northwest corner of Santa Cruz Island and accessed by boat, sits Cerro Dragón, with its mangrove forest teeming with reef sharks, iguanas, flamingos, and finches. To extend your time in paradise, consider a multi-day boat tour of the entire archipelago with a Galapagos Islands Explorer Package from Santa Cruz Island.

-Ernest White II

Visiting Santa Cruz Island from Ecuador & The Galapagos Islands Things To Do

Seafood is abundant in Ecuador. Photo courtesy of Rinaldo W. via Flickr.

Sandwiched between Latin American culinary giants Peru and Colombia, tiny Ecuador is often surprising when it comes to serving up tasty local fare. Traditional dishes are delightfully varied and stem from the fusion of European, African, and varied indigenous cultures, as well as the geographic differences found within the small confines of the country, namely Andean and Pacific coastal influences.

Despite the incursion of fast-food joints and restaurants serving international cuisines, traditional food in Ecuador, whether it befresh costeño (coastal) seafood or hearty serrano (mountainous) stews, is always a delicious treat. When traveling in the country, be sure to at least sample a few of the dishes on this list, or do yourself one better and take a Quito culinary tour and cooking class; you’ll leave having a better sense, literally, of the country’s profound flavors.

Llapingachos
This ball of golden-fried goodness is one of the most ubiquitous of Ecuadorian foods. Made from potatoes and cheese shaped into patties and dropped in boiling oil, llapingachos are usually served with chorizo sausage or beef, fried eggs, salad, and fresh avocado.

Ceviche
Strictly a coastal delicacy, this concoction of fresh raw seafood “cooked” by being soaked in special tomato-lemon sauce, slightly different than the ceviche served up to the south in Peru. The addition of tomato to the marinade gives the dish a fruity tang; ceviche is often eaten as a folk-remedy for a hangover.

Hornado
Eaten most often in the mountainous regions of the country, hornado combines succulent roasted pork with cooked potatoes and is frequently enjoyed as a quick street snack.

Fanesca
The official dish of Easter and Lent, fanesca started on the coast as a hearty stew with a base of pumpkin, sambo (a local gourd), and twelve types of legumes and grains. Over the centuries, several regional varieties have developed and now, the weeks leading up to Easter are a non-stop feast for people eager to sample all the different types of fanesca.

Choclo con Queso
A warm, savory mixture of corn and cheese, this Andean dish makes delicious use of the large, starchy kernels of local corn. Unlike the small, sweet variety grown in the United States, Andean corn lends itself to heartier recipes, especially ones involving cheese.

Cuy
Last, but certainly not least, roasted guinea pig, called cuy, is an Ecuadorian delicacy, eaten mostly in the mountains, though it can be found throughout the country. The entire rodent is skewered and cooked over a fire. Like most other strange meats, people say it tastes like chicken.

-Ernest White II

What to Eat in Ecuador from Ecuador & The Galapagos Islands Things To Do

Getting around the Galapagos by air and water. Photo courtesy of alh1 via Flickr.

Visitors to Ecuador’s Galapagos Islands may think that getting to the islands themselves is the easy part, but there are actually more ways to travel among the 21 main isles than there are to get to the archipelago in the first place. Prop planes and all manner of boats shuttle tourists and residents alike between the islands, while taxis, bicycles, buses, and other forms of land transportation ply the island roads. And though much of the archipelago is off-limits to tourists not affiliated with a certified tour organization or official naturalist-slash-guide, there are still countless places to be explored and countless ways to get there.

Most visitors arrive as part of a packaged excursion, or book thrilling activities such as the Galapagos private yacht tour to experience the islands in ways that independent travelers have difficulty accessing by themselves.

Flights between the South American mainland and the archipelago are limited to the airports on Baltra and San Cristóbal. The islands are connected to the others via air service provided by tiny airline EMETEBE, which operates a few days per week between Baltra and both San Cristóbal and Isabela Island. Seats in the five-passenger turboprop generally runs around $120 each way. Big ballers can charter the plane by the hour, starting at about $450.

Ferries course between the main islands at frequent times every day, and often for less than a dollar each way. Departure times from Baltra and San Cristóbal generally coincide with aircraft arrivals from the mainland, and efficient Galapagos arrival transfers and departure transfers shuttle visitors between the airport on Baltra and their Santa Cruz Island hotel. Crossing times between islands can range from 1 hour to up to 8, depending on the route. More adventurous types can head down to the port and pay $7 or $8 for space on one of the cargo ships that sporadically traverse the waters, but it’s a sailor’s life and bringing your own food and bedding are highly recommended.

Once on dry land, tourists and residents can circulate on big islands like Santa Cruz by very cheap public buses ($3) or more expensive taxis, which can be hired for about $10 per hour. On Santa Cruz, bicycle rentals make exploring the island that much more enjoyable, as $10 gets you an entire day’s worth of rides along the forest trails and shoreline.

-Ernest White II

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How to Get Around in the Galapagos from Ecuador & The Galapagos Islands Things To Do

Church atop Guayaquil’s Cerro Santa Ana. Photo courtesy of AMagill via Flickr.

Though not as cute as colonial jewels Quito and Cuenca, Ecuador’s business mecca and largest city, tropical Guayaquil, isn’t as dull or as dangerous as its reputation may lead you to think. This nearly 500-year-old port city—older if you count the indigenous Quilca settlement already established there before the arrival of the Spanish in 1538—basks in the equatorial sun along the shores of the Guayas River near its mouth at the Pacific Ocean. This city of almost 2.5 million people is most easily explored via a private Guayaquil city tour that explores the major landmarks in just a few hours. If you’d rather take the town independently, make sure you tick some of these sites off the must-do list.

The Parque Histórico Guayaquil harkens back to the river port of yesteryear with early 20th-century architecture, installations and exhibitions showcasing local art and rural traditions, and small but engaging zoo housing native fauna.

In the center of the city, Parque Bolívar, named for Latin America’s greatest independence hero, not only serves as a node for cultural activities such as visits to the grandiose Metropolitan Cathedral of Guayaquil or the Municipal Museum—with thousands of Inca and other ancient indigenous artifacts on display—but also as an urban habitat for the land iguana, an exotic species of lizard that can grow up to 5 feet in length.

For one of the city’s literal highlights, head up to the Cerro Santa Ana, a colorful hillside district that features Spanish colonial architecture, Andean eateries, one-of-a-kind art galleries, and a gorgeous panoramic view. Afterwards, take a stroll along Guayaquil’s revitalized riverfront boardwalk, the Malecón 2000. This well-policed promenade features restaurants, shops, galleries, sculptures, landscaped gardens, and an IMAX theater along a 1.5-mile stretch of the Guayas River.

As the sun goes down, head back up to the Cerro Santa Ana for bar-hopping, or to the nearby Zona Rosa. Nightclubs in and around the Mall Kennedy shopping center in the upscale Kennedy Norte area pack in the party people. And if you want to skip town altogether and head to the beach, consider a private day-tour to nearby Salinas Beach, the westernmost point in the country and only a 2-hour drive from Guayaquil.

-Ernest White II

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Things to Do in Guayaquil from Ecuador & The Galapagos Islands Things To Do

Llamas rule at Cajas National Park. Photo courtesy of bodevelho via Flickr.

Situated amid the stunning mountains to the west of Ecuador’s highland city of Cuenca, Cajas National Park offers visitors spectacular landscapes and exuberant plant and animal life, some of which can only be seen in this corner of the Andes.

Extending over 29,000 hectares of relatively arid Andean plateau, the park boasts over 235 lakes and lagoons, each with tongue-twisting names like Lagartococha, Osohuaycu, and Mamamag, that serve as watering holes for Andean gulls and toucans, white-tailed deer, pumas, llamas, and tapirs. The park also houses a few endangered species, such as the Andean condor and the cougar. Some of the activities that attract visitors who prefer to leave the cities behind for open spaces and fresh air include hiking, horseback riding, camping, fishing, and bird watching.

At over 12,000 feet in altitude and just a few hundred miles south of the equator, the temperature at Cajas fluctuates between a chilly 35°F and a mild 64°F all year round. This cool climate allows for varied flora, including several different types of orchids, ferns, and mosses, as well as flowering herbs and trees like rosemary and quinoa.

Among the park’s attractions, the panoramic view from the top of Avilahuyco showcases the striking multihued topography undulating between the sapphire blue of the lakes and the pale blue of the sky. The Taitachungo Lagoon is a particularly lovely spot for hiking, as it is the starting point for several trails into the surrounding countryside. Also, the nearby Mazán Forest offers additional natural wonders along the crystalline Tomebamba River.

For a complete, day-long excursion into the breathtaking wilds of the Ecuadorean highlands, take the Cajas National Park full-day tour with lunch from Cuenca, which includes a 3-hour hike through the park, a delicious and locally prepared meal, and complimentary transportation to and from Cuenca hotels.

-Ernest White II

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Cajas National Park from Ecuador & The Galapagos Islands Things To Do

Cotopaxi Volcano from Limpiopungo Lagoon. Photo courtesy of andinarvaez via Flickr.

High in the Andes of Ecuador, just south of the capital city, Quito, the Limpiopungo Lagoon shimmers in the shadow of the great volcano Cotopaxi. Situated in the vast Cotopaxi National Park, the freshwater lagoon actually sits in a basin amongst other volcanic titans, including Rumiñahui, Sincholagua, and other hard-to-pronounce peaks that form Ecuador’s 200-mile-long “Avenue of the Volcanoes.”

At over 12,400 feet (3,800 meters) in altitude, the lagoon itself rests in the nose-bleed section of the country, rendering its clear waters frigidly calm and placid, reflecting the rocky peak of nearby Rumiñahui Volcano until disturbed by native waterfowl such as the rare Andean ibis and the endangered Andean condor. Scientists estimate that the lagoon hosts at least 24 species of bird, and the grassy plain surrounding the lagoon is home to several types of large mammals, including llamas, deer, and rabbits.

Located a mere 12 miles from the town of Latacunga, the Limpiopungo Lagoon is easily accessible by road, the flora changing impressively as visitors ascend up to the lagoon’s elevation. Carved by retreating glacial flows, the 2.5-acre lagoon also serves to hydrate the area’s variegated plant life, which includes specimens that are as medicinal as they are beautiful, such as the bright yellow Saint John’s wort and the fiery flor de los Andes.

Hiking and bike trails thread around the lagoon, offering visitors high-altitude adventures without the taxing physical demands, and on clear days, the views of the surrounding volcanic peaks, including snow-capped Cotopaxi, Ecuador’s second-highest, are impossible to find anywhere else on the planet. Horseback riding excursions can be arranged from Quito, but why not explore the lagoon as part of a day trip to the National Park of Cotopaxi and Hacienda from Quito? Tours begin with complimentary transportation from your Quito hotel, whisking you out to the chilly wilds of Cotopaxi and Limpiopungo, with an optional lunch at the nearby hacienda, San Agustín del Callo.

It just may be the scenery, not the altitude, that takes your breath away.

-Ernest White II

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Limpiopungo Lagoon from Ecuador & The Galapagos Islands Things To Do

Galapagos Penguin. Photo courtesy of Derek Keats via Flickr.

Straddling the equator and offering up some of the most memorable ecological experiences in the world, Ecuador’s Galapagos Islands house some of the planet’s most unique wildlife amid a striking, volatile landscape. Visitors to the archipelago usually arrive by air from mainland Ecuador, but end up slowing down the pace a bit with multiday Galapagos cruises, weaving between the islands and providing ample opportunities for outdoor activities and excursions, including hiking, kayaking, snorkeling, and scuba diving.

Santa Cruz Island—with 12,000 inhabitants, the largest human population in the archipelago—hosts eerie lava tunnels, a dormant volcano, and the Charles Darwin Research Station, along with flocks of flamingos at Tortuga Bay, hundreds of sea lions on nearby Loberia Island, and a colony of the world-famous Galapagos giant turtles. Travelers to the islands can experience all of these natural wonders via a day cruise that even features snorkeling with sea lions and white-tipped sharks.

Galapagos island-hopping has never been easier with four- and five-day cruises around the archipelago by yacht, with stops for animal-spotting, hiking, and relaxing on the beach. Tiny Plaza Island features blue-footed boobies and marine iguanas, while the impressive and multicolored volcanic stone of Bartolome Island provides a stunning habitat for the native Galapagos penguins. Cave exploration, hiking, snorkeling, and bird-watching mark the activities on Floreana and Enderby islands, former refuge of pirates and whalers.

Some of the best snorkeling in the islands is on Española, the southernmost island in the group and home to unique species of iguanas and birds, including a few of the famous finches Darwin studied and the renowned waved albatross. Isabela Island, the archipelago’s largest, is the only one to actually sit atop the equator and is the only place in the Northern Hemisphere with a natural penguin habitat.

-Ernest White II

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Outdoor Activities in the Galapagos from Ecuador & The Galapagos Islands Things To Do

Cotopaxi crater. Photo courtesy of magnusvk via Flickr.

Mountain climbing in Ecuador is but one of many adventure activities offered in the northern stretch of the Andes, and climbing Cotopaxi is often featured on the bucket lists of backpackers from around the globe. Overlooking the capital city of Quito at over 19,000 feet (5,900 meters) above sea level, Cotopaxi is Ecuador’s second highest peak and one of the highest active volcanos on the planet.

Situated in Cotopaxi National Park, 30 miles south of Quito, the sleeping monster last erupted in the 1940s. Since then, glacial ice has retaken the peak, rendering the entire landscape an ethereal snowy wonderland and providing a breathtaking setting for the spectacular sunrises at the summit. Several tour operators have developed climbs of varying intensity for groups and individuals. Regardless of how experienced you are as a climber or how many people are in your group, you must be sure to acclimatize yourself to the altitude before beginning the climb. This means arriving in the area at least a week before the climb and taking high-altitude treks on smaller neighboring summits.

Visitors usually arrive by car or van, often arranged by the tour company, and the park entrance fee of $10 may or may not be included in the tour package price. The park houses three mountain lodges, the largest being Refúgio José F. Rivas ($24 per night, including breakfast), about 45 minutes by foot from the main parking area, as well as several campgrounds along the hiking trails. Most hikes start from the lodges at around midnight, heading up the mountain in the wee hours of the morning to arrive at the summit by daybreak.

The climb to the top of Cotopaxi isn’t grueling, but it is fairly technical, requiring crampons, ice axes, and harnesses. These items, along with cold-weather gear, tents, and transportation to and from Quito are provided depending on which tour company you choose. Two-day guided treks start at $200 per person and can go as high as $1,200 per person for lengthier, more luxury-oriented tours.

-Ernest White II

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Climbing Cotopaxi from Ecuador & The Galapagos Islands Things To Do

Quito at night. Photo courtesy of agustroesma via Flickr.

Cradled high in the Andes, in the shadow of sleeping volcano Pichincha, Quito combines historic charm and Andean culture with a unique, urbane aesthetic that enchants visitors to Ecuador’s capital city and keeps them coming back for more. At 9,350 feet above sea level, Quito’s high altitude means new arrivals should keep the urge to “do it all” in check before overexerting themselves, so a half-day Quito tour just might be the perfect low-key introduction to the city, or take a longer tour with a tasty Ecuadorian lunch.

Home to the largest Spanish colonial zone in Latin America, Old Town Quito forms the historic and incredibly picturesque heart of the Ecuadorian capital. Vast cobblestone squares such as Independence Plaza, with its Moorish-inspired architecture and important government buildings, and Santo Domingo Plaza, lorded over by the immense Santo Domingo Cathedral, punctuate the bustling neighborhood, full of locally-owned shops and eateries. Aside from being the starting point of Quito’s impressive Semana Santa (Holy Week) processions, one of the largest Easter commemorations in the Catholic world, San Francisco Plaza serves as a hub for lovers of architecture, with the elaborately Baroque interior of San Francisco Church and recently-restored 19th century mansion Casa Gangotena standing sentry. Tour Old Town Quito by day or by night, and you can’t help but feel transported to a bygone era.

If the altitude doesn’t get you down, head up to El Panecillo, one of the city’s most popular panoramic viewpoints at nearly 10,000 feet above sea level, crowned by a statue of a winged Virgin Mary, or go shopping for handicrafts and souvenirs at El Ejido Market on weekends. At night, head down to La Mariscal, the city’s popular entertainment district, for an evening of pub crawling or dancing—better brush up on those salsa steps and reggaetón gyrations—or take in an Ecuadorian folkloric ballet that offers a glimpse at the artistic side of the city.

Itching to get out of town for a few hours? Pop up to the Middle of the World Monument, where the Equator was “officially” marked in 1739, and have your picture taken while you straddle the line before trekking next door to the kooky Intiñan Solar Museum, which also claims to straddle the Equator. Nature buffs can get their fix with a trip to Cotopaxi National Park, named for the climbable snow-capped volcano within its borders that dwarfs the surrounding landscape as it rises 19,000 feet above sea level.

-Ernest White II

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Things to Do in Quito from Ecuador & The Galapagos Islands Things To Do

Marine Iguana on Espanola Island. Photo credit: blinking idiot via Flickr.

The magnificent volcanic archipelago that is the Galapagos Islands is famed for its truly unique biodiversity. The string of 18 islands, surrounded by smaller islets, is quite isolated from any continent or major landmass—a distant 975km (525mi) west of the closest South American shore, Ecuador, to which the islands belong. And they are relatively new, a youthful 8 million years old.

Thus, the islands remain a safe haven for a number of endemic species, residents whose ancestors arrived quite by accident and were suddenly free to adapt to the gorgeous ecosystem without so many predatory pressures. Today, many would be so ill suited to the much more competitive mainland that they might not survive a year.

The Galapagos are therefore a most remarkable laboratory for evolution, famously inspiring Charles Darwin to his theory of natural selection. Wildlife watchers will find no finer place to indulge their awe of nature. These are just some of the spectacular species you’ll find almost nowhere else.

Giant Galapagos Tortoise
Perhaps the most iconic of the Galapagos’ endemics are the enormous, slow-moving giant tortoises, which have adapted into 11 subspecies, each native to a single island. Well, ten; in June 2012, Lonesome George, the last of the Pinta Island’s tortoises, passed away without leaving an heir. And that is how fragile the genetic gift of these islands truly is.

Marine Iguanas
The only lizard in the modern world that has reclaimed its ability to swim is the marine iguana, present throughout the archipelago. Their earthbound cousins, found on half a dozen of islands, have evolved into three separate subspecies, all of which prefer to munch on prickly pear fruit rather than the seaweed and algae marine iguanas have come to prefer.

Galapagos Reef Fish
Though you might think that the islands’ unique biodiversity would be less pronounced in the sea, the Galapagos’ isolated location means that roughly 17% of sea species are also endemic. In addition to local treasures like the Galapagos reef fish and Galapagos green turtle, snorkelers and divers will likely see schools of rare whale and hammerhead sharks, various rays, humpback whales, and other fascinating denizens of the deep.

Galapagos Penguin
One wonders what sort of trek the ancestors of more than 1000 breeding pairs of the endemic Galapagos penguin must have endured to arrive to this archipelago, the only place north of the equator where penguins are found. Concentrated mainly of Fernandina and Isabela Islands, these awkward birds share parenting duties and have a number of natural enemies even here on the islands.

Blue-Footed Boobies
As with the sea life, you might expect flight-capable birds to be able to move between the islands and mainland with ease. But the isles’ isolation means numerous birds are endemic as well, most famously the Darwin finches, with dramatically different beaks adapted to specialized foodstuffs available on each of the different isles. The Galapagos hawk and waved albatross are other endemics. The dramatic red-throated frigatebirds and blue-footed boobies, are crowd favorites that will put a smile on any dedicated birder’s face.

-Paige Penland

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The Diverse Wildlife of the Galapagos from Ecuador & The Galapagos Islands Things To Do