Munich is one of those places which reminds you why belts come with multiple notches. There’s the beer of course, great amber rivers of it. Although you could accompany it with lentil salad, let’s face it, you’re not going to.
The cliché holds that the Bavarian diet is all about sausages, dumplings, potatoes and bread. Like most clichés, it is both partly true and a stand-in for a more complex set of truths. While the Bavarian capital never turns its nose up at a pretzel, it is also an outward-looking city with sophisticated tastes and the disposable income to indulge them.
Among the great pleasures of dining in Munich is the marked seasonal emphasis. Head out in spring, for example, and you’ll find white asparagus on menus all over town. A cooking course is a great way to learn more, such as the promisingly named Koch dich glücklich (cook yourself happy), a primer for healthy cooking.
There are restaurants for every taste and budget, ranging from homey “wirtshaus” eateries where gutsy Bavarian meals are served up with beer, to Michelin-starred restaurants like Dallmayr, Acquarello and Königshof. For quality dining between these extremes, the upmarket district of Schwabing is a reliable starting point. Sunday brunch is a big occasion here, with many cafés offering extensive buffets. A great way to get an idea of what’s on offer is to take a culinary walking tour through the neighborhood, pick your favorite restaurant, then return there later to enjoy a full meal. There are also tours through central Munich’s Viktualienmarkt, with the best of produce both local and imported. Wherever you go, look out for top quality wines from Franconia, in Bavaria’s north.